P0107 means the signal voltage from the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor has fallen below the minimum the ECU will accept, typically under about 0.5 V. The ECU reads that as a near-perfect vacuum in the intake manifold, a pressure the engine cannot physically produce, so it stops trusting the sensor and falls back to a default speed-density estimate. This is different from P0106, where the sensor still works but reports a value that does not match engine conditions. P0107 is a signal pinned at the bottom of the scale, which usually means a wiring fault, a corroded connector, or a dead sensor. Most repairs land between 40 and 250 euros.
DTC/P0107·Audi
P0107 on Audi: Causes, Symptoms and Fix Cost
Quick Answer
Moderate SeverityNot safe to driveAudi
P0107 on a Audi means the signal voltage from the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor has fallen below the minimum the ECU will accept, typically under about 0.5 V. The ECU reads that as a near-perfect vacuum in the intake manifold, a pressure the engine cannot physically produce, so it stops trusting the sensor and falls back to a default speed-density estimate. This is different from P0106, where the sensor still works but reports a value that does not match engine conditions. P0107 is a signal pinned at the bottom of the scale, which usually means a wiring fault, a corroded connector, or a dead sensor. Most repairs land between 40 and 250 euros.
What does P0107 mean on a Audi?
Audi A4
2008-2024The A4 shares its sensor design with the Golf, the same VAG G71 intake manifold pressure sender combined with a temperature element in the intake tract on both TFSI and TDI engines, and not the G31 charge air pressure sender. Engine bay access on the B8 and B9 is tight, so what looks like a fifteen minute sensor swap can turn into an hour of labour. Because several sensors share one 5 V reference from the engine ECU, a single shorted sensor elsewhere can set P0107 alongside other low-input codes, so read all stored faults with VCDS before ordering parts.
What causes P0107 on a Audi?
Beyond the generic causes listed on the main P0107 page, these are the Audi-specific patterns we see most often:
Audi A4Shared 5 V reference pulled down by a different shorted sensor, setting several low-input codes at once
Audi A4Tight B8 and B9 engine bay access raising labour time on an otherwise simple sensor swap
How to diagnose P0107 on a Audi with OBD2
Follow these steps to pinpoint the root cause of P0107:
- Read every stored code before touching anything. If P0107 appears next to other low-input codes such as a throttle position or intake air temperature fault, suspect the shared 5 V reference rather than the MAP sensor itself
- Switch the ignition on but do not start the engine, and read the live MAP value. With the engine off the manifold is at outside air pressure, so the sensor should report roughly barometric pressure, typically around 95 to 105 kPa at sea level and lower at altitude. A reading stuck near 0 to 20 kPa confirms the signal really is pinned low and is the single most useful test on this code
- Inspect the sensor, its connector, and the harness. Look for green or white corrosion on the pins, water inside the plug, and rubbing marks where the loom crosses metal. On most engines the sensor screws straight into the intake manifold and there is no hose in the circuit at all. Only if yours uses a remote sensor on a hose should you also check that hose and its manifold port for oil sludge or a kink
- With the ignition on and the sensor unplugged, run the test that separates a bad sensor from a broken wire: bridge the 5 V reference pin to the signal pin at the connector with a jumper wire and watch the live value. If it jumps to the top of the scale and the fault turns into P0108, the over-range code, then the signal wire and the ECU input are both healthy and the sensor is the problem. If it stays pinned low with the jumper fitted, the signal wire is broken or shorted to ground between the plug and the ECU. Simply measuring the unplugged signal pin is a weaker version of the same test, because although many ECUs pull an unloaded signal line up toward 5 V, not all of them do, so a reading near 0 V on its own is not proof of a short to ground
- Plug the sensor back in and backprobe the connector. The reference pin should read roughly 4.5 to 5.2 V and the sensor ground should be within about 0.1 V of battery negative. A missing reference points at a broken feed wire or a short elsewhere on the same circuit
- If the wiring checks out, make the sensor prove it can respond. On a manifold-mounted sensor, start the engine and watch the live value fall from barometric pressure to a normal idle vacuum, roughly 25 to 45 kPa, then swing back toward barometric when you blip the throttle. If the sensor unscrews easily or sits on a hose, you can apply vacuum with a hand pump instead and watch the value sweep smoothly. A value that never moves means the sensor is dead. Finish with a wiggle test on the harness while watching live data to catch an intermittent short
How much does P0107 cost to fix on a Audi? (EUR)
Estimated repair costs on a Audi (Audi parts and labour typically run 25% above the average for this code).
Prices estimated as of May 2026. Costs vary by region, vehicle, and shop.
Related codes that often appear with P0107 on Audi
These codes commonly cluster with P0107 on Audi vehicles:
FAQ: P0107 on Audi
What does the P0107 code mean?
P0107 means the ECU is seeing a MAP sensor signal voltage below its minimum acceptable value, typically under about 0.5 V. Because a MAP sensor puts out low voltage for high vacuum, the ECU reads that as an almost perfect vacuum in the intake manifold, which no running engine can produce. It rejects the reading and switches to a default speed-density estimate. The important difference from P0106 is that P0106 is an implausible value from a sensor that is still responding, while P0107 is a signal stuck at the bottom of its range, which almost always means a circuit or sensor failure rather than an air leak.
What are the symptoms of P0107?
The check engine light comes on, starting takes longer than normal, the idle is rough, and there is hesitation or surging under light throttle. What happens to the fuelling depends on the fuel. A petrol engine that calculates load from manifold pressure reads the pinned-low signal as almost no air entering, so it underfuels: the car feels flat and weak, may stall at junctions, and can be slow to catch when cranking. Black or dark grey smoke is the diesel version of this fault, where the substitute value upsets EGR and boost control. On turbocharged petrol and diesel engines the ECU often limits power as well, so the car will not rev out.
What causes a P0107 code?
The most common causes are a signal wire shorted to ground where the harness has chafed or been pinched, and a MAP sensor whose internal element has failed and now outputs a fixed low voltage. Close behind are a corroded or water-filled connector, and a broken or shorted 5 V reference feed from the ECU. On the minority of engines that still mount the sensor remotely on a vacuum hose, a hose blocked with oil sludge can also trap vacuum and hold the reading low, but most of the engines on this page have no hose at all. Note that a hose which has come off completely gives the opposite fault: the sensor then reads atmospheric pressure, around 101 kPa, and that is an in-range voltage rather than an over-range one, so the expected code is P0106 and not P0108.
Is it safe to drive with a P0107 code?
Only as far as the workshop, and on a turbocharged or diesel car not even that with any confidence. Those engines commonly drop into limp mode with capped power, which makes overtaking and motorway merging unsafe. A naturally aspirated petrol car will usually get you there, but it is fuelling from a substitute value, so it runs lean and flat and may stall at junctions, and lean misfire pushes unburnt fuel into the catalytic converter. It is not a code to live with, so get it fixed within days rather than weeks.
How do you fix and clear a P0107 code?
Confirm the fault first with a key-on, engine-off live reading, which should show roughly barometric pressure and will instead sit near zero. Then unplug the sensor and, with the ignition on, jumper the 5 V reference pin to the signal pin: if the reading jumps to the top of the scale and the code turns into P0108, the wiring is good and the sensor is at fault, while a reading that stays pinned low points at a broken or shorted signal wire. Repair the chafed wire or corroded connector, or fit a new sensor, whichever the test points to. After the repair, clear the code with a scan tool, then restart and confirm the key-on reading is back at barometric pressure and that the value drops to a normal idle vacuum once the engine is running. Take a short drive with some light and heavy throttle so the readiness monitor completes.
How much does it cost to fix P0107?
Cleaning and reseating a corroded connector can cost nothing beyond a can of contact cleaner, or 20 to 50 euros at a workshop. A replacement MAP sensor is typically 20 to 120 euros for the part with 20 to 70 euros of labour, so 40 to 190 euros all in, higher on premium models where the sensor is buried. Wiring repairs are harder to price because most of the bill is fault-finding time, usually 70 to 220 euros. ECU replacement runs into four figures but is very rarely the answer, so treat any quote that starts there with suspicion.
Looking for the full P0107 reference (all makes, full diagnosis flow, complete repair cost matrix)?
See the main P0107 guideSkanyx · Audi
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