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DTC/P0107·BMW

P0107 on BMW: Causes, Symptoms and Fix Cost

Quick Answer
Moderate SeverityNot safe to driveBMW

P0107 on a BMW means the signal voltage from the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor has fallen below the minimum the ECU will accept, typically under about 0.5 V. The ECU reads that as a near-perfect vacuum in the intake manifold, a pressure the engine cannot physically produce, so it stops trusting the sensor and falls back to a default speed-density estimate. This is different from P0106, where the sensor still works but reports a value that does not match engine conditions. P0107 is a signal pinned at the bottom of the scale, which usually means a wiring fault, a corroded connector, or a dead sensor. Most repairs land between 40 and 220 euros.

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What does P0107 mean on a BMW?

The Quick Answer above is the generic definition. What follows is the model-specific detail for the BMW models that log P0107.

BMW 3 Series

2015-2024

BMW uses a combined temperature and pressure sensor that screws straight into the intake manifold on modern engines such as the B46, B48 and B58, so there is no vacuum hose in the circuit and the fault is almost always electrical. Water leaking into the E-box under the scuttle is a well-documented BMW problem that corrodes DME connector pins and can pull sensor signals low, so check that area if the code came back after a new sensor. INPA and ISTA show the live manifold pressure value for comparison against the key-on barometric reading.

What causes P0107 on a BMW?

Beyond the generic causes listed on the main P0107 page, these are the patterns noted for BMW models:

BMW 3 SeriesCorroded DME connector pins from water entering the E-box under the scuttle
BMW 3 SeriesFailed combined temperature and pressure sensor in the intake manifold

How to diagnose P0107 on a BMW with OBD2

Follow these steps to pinpoint the root cause of P0107:

  1. Read every stored code before touching anything. If P0107 appears next to other low-input codes such as a throttle position or intake air temperature fault, suspect the shared 5 V reference rather than the MAP sensor itself
  2. Switch the ignition on but do not start the engine, and read the live MAP value. With the engine off the manifold is at outside air pressure, so the sensor should report roughly barometric pressure, typically around 95 to 105 kPa at sea level and lower at altitude. A reading stuck near 0 to 20 kPa confirms the signal really is pinned low and is the single most useful test on this code
  3. Inspect the sensor, its connector, and the harness. Look for green or white corrosion on the pins, water inside the plug, and rubbing marks where the loom crosses metal. On most engines the sensor screws straight into the intake manifold and there is no hose in the circuit at all. Only if yours uses a remote sensor on a hose should you also check that hose and its manifold port for oil sludge or a kink
  4. With the ignition on and the sensor unplugged, run the test that separates a bad sensor from a broken wire: bridge the 5 V reference pin to the signal pin at the connector with a jumper wire and watch the live value. If it jumps to the top of the scale and the fault turns into P0108, the over-range code, then the signal wire and the ECU input are both healthy and the sensor is the problem. If it stays pinned low with the jumper fitted, the signal wire is broken or shorted to ground between the plug and the ECU. Simply measuring the unplugged signal pin is a weaker version of the same test, because although many ECUs pull an unloaded signal line up toward 5 V, not all of them do, so a reading near 0 V on its own is not proof of a short to ground
  5. Plug the sensor back in and backprobe the connector. The reference pin should read roughly 4.5 to 5.2 V and the sensor ground should be within about 0.1 V of battery negative. A missing reference points at a broken feed wire or a short elsewhere on the same circuit
  6. If the wiring checks out, make the sensor prove it can respond. On a manifold-mounted sensor, start the engine and watch the live value fall from barometric pressure to a normal idle vacuum, roughly 25 to 45 kPa, then swing back toward barometric when you blip the throttle. If the sensor unscrews easily or sits on a hose, you can apply vacuum with a hand pump instead and watch the value sweep smoothly. A value that never moves means the sensor is dead. Finish with a wiggle test on the harness while watching live data to catch an intermittent short

How much does P0107 cost to fix on a BMW? (EUR)

Estimated repair costs for P0107 in EUR, compiled across makes. Expect BMW parts and labour towards the upper end of each range.

Repair Parts Cost Labor Cost Total Estimate DIY Difficulty
Clean and reseat MAP sensor connector, apply dielectric grease €0–€10 €0–€40 €0–€50 Easy
Replace MAP sensor €20–€120 €20–€70 €40–€190 Easy
Clear or replace a blocked vacuum hose, only on engines where the sensor sits on a hose €5–€25 €20–€60 €25–€85 Easy
Repair MAP signal wire, 5 V reference, or connector pins €10–€40 €60–€180 €70–€220 Moderate
ECU diagnosis and replacement, worst case only €400–€1200 €100–€250 €500–€1450 Professional

Prices estimated as of March 2026. Costs vary by region, vehicle, and shop.

These codes are often seen alongside P0107 or point to related issues, on any make:

Looking for the full P0107 reference (all makes, full diagnosis flow, complete repair cost matrix)?

See the main P0107 guide
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