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DTC/P0098·Audi

P0098 on Audi: Causes, Symptoms and Fix Cost

Quick Answer
Moderate SeveritySafe to drive (short-term)Audi

P0098 on a Audi means the circuit for the second intake air temperature sensor is reading too high a voltage, which the ECU translates into an implausibly cold air reading, usually around -40 C. The sensor is an NTC thermistor whose resistance rises as it gets colder, so an open circuit or an unplugged connector looks exactly like extreme cold. On most turbocharged and supercharged engines this sensor sits in the charge air pipe after the intercooler, often built into the boost pressure sensor, and it tells the ECU how hot the compressed air entering the engine really is. A connector reseat, a new sensor, or a wiring repair typically costs 15 to 230 euros.

Repair cost on Audi19 - €288

What does P0098 mean on a Audi?

P0098 means the circuit for the second intake air temperature sensor is reading too high a voltage, which the ECU translates into an implausibly cold air reading, usually around -40 C. The sensor is an NTC thermistor whose resistance rises as it gets colder, so an open circuit or an unplugged connector looks exactly like extreme cold. On most turbocharged and supercharged engines this sensor sits in the charge air pipe after the intercooler, often built into the boost pressure sensor, and it tells the ECU how hot the compressed air entering the engine really is. A connector reseat, a new sensor, or a wiring repair typically costs 15 to 230 euros.

Audi A4

2008-2024

The A4 uses the same VAG combined charge air pressure and temperature sensor as the Golf on its EA888 engines, but the B8 and B9 engine bays are tighter, so getting to the charge air pipe takes longer and labour is higher. Check the connector and the short pigtail carefully, because the harness runs close to hot charge air plumbing. Genuine sensors cost noticeably more than generic equivalents, and a poorly fitting cheap part is a common reason the code returns.

What causes P0098 on a Audi?

Beyond the generic causes listed on the main P0098 page, these are the Audi-specific patterns we see most often:

Audi A4Open temperature element inside the combined charge air pressure and temperature sensor
Audi A4Tight engine bay access on B8 and B9 hiding a partially seated connector

How to diagnose P0098 on a Audi with OBD2

Follow these steps to pinpoint the root cause of P0098:

  1. With the engine off after a night parked, read both intake air temperature values in live data. They should agree within a few degrees. If sensor 2 sits at its minimum of about -40 C while sensor 1 shows the real ambient temperature, the circuit is open rather than genuinely cold
  2. Find the sensor. On turbocharged and supercharged engines it is normally in the charge air pipe between the intercooler and the throttle body, and on many cars it is built into the boost pressure sensor in that same pipe. Some engines instead place it in the intake manifold
  3. Unclip the connector, look for corrosion, spread or backed out pins and water inside, then clean it and push it back on until it clicks. Wiggle the plug and the first stretch of harness while watching the live reading, since a value that jumps back to a sensible number points at the connector
  4. Work out which pin is which before you probe anything. A standalone temperature sensor has two pins, one signal and one sensor ground. A combined charge air pressure and temperature sensor has four, carrying a 5 volt reference, a sensor ground, a pressure signal and a temperature signal, so on those you have to identify them first. Take the pinout from a wiring diagram for your exact engine, and if you cannot tell the pins apart with confidence, stop here and let a workshop do the next two steps. Then turn the ignition on with the engine off, unplug the connector and measure the voltage between the temperature signal pin and the sensor ground pin. Around 5 volts confirms that the supply and the sensor ground both reach the plug. No voltage means the supply or the ground side is open before you even get to the sensor
  5. This is the step that separates a bad sensor from a broken wire, and it is the one step where the wrong pin does real damage. Leave the connector unplugged with the ignition on and bridge the temperature signal pin to the sensor ground pin only, using a short jumper wire. Never bridge the 5 volt reference pin to ground: the ECU feeds that same reference to other sensors, and shorting it can turn one fault code into a dashboard full of them. If the live reading jumps to its maximum, roughly 120 to 150 C, then the wiring and the ECU are fine and the sensor itself is faulty. If the reading stays at -40 C, the sensor is innocent and the fault is in the harness or at the ECU
  6. Confirm the verdict. Measure the sensor across its terminals with a multimeter, where a healthy NTC reads roughly 2,000 to 3,000 ohms at 20 C and an infinite reading proves it is open internally. If the jumper test pointed at the harness instead, check continuity of the signal and sensor ground wires back to the ECU connector and repair the break

How much does P0098 cost to fix on a Audi? (EUR)

Estimated repair costs on a Audi (Audi parts and labour typically run 25% above the average for this code).

Repair Parts Cost Labor Cost Total Estimate DIY Difficulty
Reseat and clean the sensor connector €0–€6 €19–€50 €19–€56 Easy
Replace the charge air temperature sensor €19–€75 €25–€88 €44–€163 Easy
Replace the combined boost pressure and charge air temperature sensor €50–€175 €38–€113 €88–€288 Moderate
Repair open wiring or a damaged connector in the sensor circuit €6–€38 €75–€200 €81–€238 Moderate
Workshop diagnosis of an intermittent open circuit €0–€0 €75–€150 €75–€150 Professional

Prices estimated as of May 2026. Costs vary by region, vehicle, and shop.

These codes commonly cluster with P0098 on Audi vehicles:

P0097P0096P0095P0113AudiP0111

FAQ: P0098 on Audi

What does the P0098 code mean?

P0098 means the ECU measured too high a voltage on the second intake air temperature sensor circuit. The sensor is a thermistor whose resistance climbs as it gets colder, so when the circuit goes open the voltage rises to its ceiling and the ECU reads it as impossibly cold air, typically -40 C. It is an electrical fault in almost every case, not a real temperature problem. P0113 describes the same failure on the first intake air temperature sensor.

Where is intake air temperature sensor 2 located?

On most turbocharged and supercharged engines sensor 2 measures charge air, the compressed and then intercooled air on its way to the engine, so it sits in the charge air pipe between the intercooler outlet and the throttle body. On many cars it is not a standalone part at all but a temperature element built into the boost pressure sensor in that pipe, which is why the fix is sometimes a combined sensor. A few engines place sensor 2 in the intake manifold instead, so check where the live value actually responds to a heat source before ordering parts.

What are the symptoms of P0098?

The check engine light comes on and the second intake air temperature value in live data sits stuck at about -40 C even when the engine is hot. Because the ECU substitutes a default charge air temperature, acceleration under boost feels softer, there can be slight hesitation or a rough idle in the first minutes of a cold start, and fuel consumption creeps up a little. Many drivers notice nothing at all except the warning light.

What causes a P0098 code?

An open circuit somewhere between the sensor and the ECU. The single most common cause is a connector left unplugged or only half clipped after intercooler, charge pipe, air filter or turbo work. Next come a broken signal or ground wire, a sensor with an internally open thermistor, and corroded or water damaged terminals. Harness chafing along the hot charge air pipe is less common, and a faulty ECU input is rare enough that it should be the last thing you suspect.

Is it safe to drive with a P0098 code?

Yes for the short term. The engine keeps running on a default charge air temperature, so there is no immediate mechanical risk, but the ECU is fuelling and timing on a guess and may hold back boost. You lose a little performance and economy, and the car will not pass an emissions test with the light on. Fix it within a few weeks, and sooner if you also have boost or fuel trim codes stored.

How much does it cost to fix P0098?

If the plug was simply loose, the fix is free or costs 15 to 40 euros at a workshop. A standalone charge air temperature sensor is 15 to 60 euros for the part with 20 to 70 euros labour, while a combined boost pressure and temperature sensor runs 40 to 140 euros for the part. A wiring repair is the expensive outcome at 65 to 190 euros because the time goes into tracing the open. After the repair, clear the code and check that sensor 2 tracks ambient temperature on a cold start before you call it done.

Looking for the full P0098 reference (all makes, full diagnosis flow, complete repair cost matrix)?

See the main P0098 guide
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